Nekonshu
Like wine, sake is a fermented beverage elaborated from polished rice and with a similar alcoholic content.
However, while wine takes its aromas and flavours from the grapes, as well as its colour in the case of red wine, rice grains have little acidity and flavour and lack any colour. Another main difference is that, by using polished rice, it cannot start germinating and transform its starch into fermentable sugar, as it happens with beer.
This means that, for sake production, two processes need to concur at the same time: the transformation of starch into sugar, thanks to a mould called Koji mould, and the fermentation of that sugar into alcohol using yeasts. Unlike grapes, rice do not have a supply of water and sake brewers need to add it to allow fermentation. Around 80% of a bottle of Sake is added water and its quality and characteristics will heavily influence the style of sake produced.
This characteristics mean that, for sake production, the degree of polishing, the style of koji, the yeast and water used and the elaboration methods followed have the same influence as the type of rice used. There is not a concept of terroir and, although some regions may have a more widespread style of sake, any brewery in Japan can elaborate sake in any style and using any type of rice.
All rice used for Sake production belongs to the Japonica (short-grained) type of rice.
The main varieties are:
✤ Yamada-Nishiki
✤ Gohyakuman-Goku
✤ Miyama-Nishiki
✤ Dewa-Sansan
✤ Omachi
And the main sake styles are:
✤ JUN-MAI
✤ Non-Junmai
Yamada-Nishiki:
Considered the emperor of Sake rice varieties, it accounts for 30% of the sake rice production of Japan. Around 80% of it is planted in the prefecture of Hyogo, west of Kyoto. Its grains are exceptionally large and its shimpaku or starch core at the centre of the grain is well defined, making it ideal for polishing. This makes it the ideal choice for Ginjo and Daijingo styles, which requires a stronger degree of polishing. Sakes produced with this variety tend to have a great depth, soft texture and light aromas.
Gohyakuman-Goku:
Produced mainly in Niigata prefecture, it accounts for around 25% of the sake rice planted in Japan. Its grains are slightly smaller than those of Yamada-Nishiki but are also ideal for polishing. The style of sake produced with this variety tend to have light flavours and aromas and to be delicate and dry. This can be considered the main style produced in Niigata.
Miyama-Nishiki:
Planted mostly in the mountainous prefecture of Nagano, this rice is well adapted to these cooler conditions. Its grains have a similar shape as Gohyakuman-Goku but it has the potential to produce richer and sweeter sakes with even lighter aromas than Yamada-Nishiki.
Miyama-Nishiki:
Planted mostly in the mountainous prefecture of Nagano, this rice is well adapted to these cooler conditions. Its grains have a similar shape as Gohyakuman-Goku but it has the potential to produce richer and sweeter sakes with even lighter aromas than Yamada-Nishiki.
Dewa-Sansan:
Almost none of this variety is grown outside Dewa prefecture, where it has become a specialty. It accounts for only 2% of the sake rice planted in Japan. Sakes made with this variety and brewed with local rice, water, yeast and koji can qualify for the Dewa33 distinction. These sakes tend to display more intense flavours with herbal hints in their aromas.
Omachi:
One of the oldest sake rice varieties, it is mostly planted in the Okayama prefecture, west of Honshu. It has very large grains, like Yamada-Nishiki, but the shape and texture of its shimpaku or starch core make it very difficult to polish. Only 2% of sake specific rice planted in Japan comes from this variety. It tends to produce sakes in a richer and more complex style, with hints of earth and spice and higher umami.
HEY THERE! I’M NEKONSHU, WOULD YOU TO LIKE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ME?
Japan is the birthplace of Sake, also called Nihonshu (alcohol from Japan). Mix this word with neko, the japanese word for cat, and you have my name! Sake is also fermented, like wine or beer, but as the rice is polished, we need the help of a fungi called koji to transform starch into sugar. This two processes: the transformation of starch into sugar and the fermentation of sugar into alcohol, takes place at the same time and need to be carefully monitorised so the yeast has always sugar to feed on. The main difference with wine is that, in this case, we avoid most of the primary aromas from the rice as they are not desirable, so the aromas and flavours of the sake depend heavily of the rice used and the elaboration method followed. There are not restrictions and any sake brewery from any location is free to use whatever rice they prefer and whatever elaboration techniques they deem more suitable for the style of sake they desire.
Japan is truly a cat country and I’m very happy to live here. People are very kind and attentive and they have a deep appreciation for us. We arrived from China and our reputation as mice hunters quickly helped us to earn the respect of the Japanese. We became a symbol for any respectable shop, proving that the place was clean and free of rodents, so shops that could not afford to have a cat displayed a maneki neko, or beckoning cat, to attract customers. Nowadays we are an important part of Japanese society and culture and we even manage to conquest our own islands. We let the humans live in those islands too, though, and we always welcome new visitors if they bring some food.
In the picture I’m wearing a traditional sake brewer yukata and bandana and I’m opening a big sake barrel with a wooden hammer. These barrels are decorated and only opened in special occasions, like a matsuri (festival)
my must have products!
Everything you need to prove you are a real SAKE lover!
A deeper look into the main sake styles:
JUN MAI
(Tokutei-meisho-shu): Accounting for more than 30% of sake production in Japan, the only ingredients allowed are rice, water, koji (a culture of koji mould and rice necessary to transform the starch into fermentable sugar) yeast and, depending of the category, alcohol. Premium sake can be further divided into the following categories:
The word Junmai means pure rice and for these sake categories no high-strength distilled alcohol can be added. Depending of the polishing ratio of the rice, this sakes can be clasifyed in three categories:
✾ Junmai-shu: Sake denominated simply as Junmai-shu has a polishing ratio of at least 70%. This means that at least 30% of the rice grain has been removed. This is made in order to eliminate the bran and outer layers of the endosperm containing proteins, lipids, vitamins and minerals as all these elements may add undesirable flavours and aromas to the sake. Junmai-shu sakes tend to have a fuller body and higher acidity compared with other styles of Sake.
✾ Junmai ginjo: For these sakes only rice with a polishing ratio of 60% can be used. Junmai Ginjo sakes are usually more fragrant and complex with low levels of acidity.
✾ Junmai Daiginjo: For these styles, the polishing ratio of the rice must be of 50% or more, meaning that at least half of the rice kernel has been removed. Due to increasing costs of this decision, Junmai Daiginjo sakes tend to have higher prices on the market, however it does not necessarily mean that its quality is superior. Although there is a range of styles, depending on the rice, yeast and sake making decisions, most junmai tend to display intense and complex aromas.
Non-Junmai
For this sake, high-strength distilled alcohol is added. This addition do not increase the alcohol volume of the final product, as water is added later, but it helps to enhance the aromas and may result in sakes with a lighter body. Depending of the polishing ratio of the rice, this sakes can be classified in three categories:
✾ Honjozo: Honjozo means “the traditional brewing method” indicating that it was considered the proper way to use added alcohol, as opposed to other methods where alcohol was used to increase volumes and lower prices. Before the widespread adoption of mechanical polishing techniques in 1980, polishing ratios below 60% were almost impossible, so most sakes were labelled as honjozo. These sakes tend to be drier and less acidic but a vast diversity of styles can be found depending of the rice used and the sake making decisions of the brewer. The polish ratio of rice used for Honjozo must be of 70% or less
✾ Daiginjo: Only rice with a polishing ratio of 50% or less can be used for its elaboration. It displays similar characteristics of Junmai daiginjo sake, with slightly more intense flavours and aromas due to the extra alcohol added. These sakes tend also to attain higher prices due to the higher cost of using rice with this polishing ratios and price should not be considered as a primary indication of quality.
✾ Ginjo: The rice used for the elaboration of this sake must have a rice polishing ratio of 60% or less. It displays similar characteristics of Junmai ginjo sake, with slightly more intense flavours and aromas due to the extra alcohol added. The amount of alcohol added is strictly regulated and is the same for Honjozo, Ginjo and Daijingo.
Kimoto
Kimoto is the name of the traditional technique for the creation of the shubo, or fementation starter. This method creates a protective environment for the yeast thanks to the action of lactic acid producing bacteria: the acidity levels are too high for other undesirable microorganisms to live and yeast, that multiplies slower than bacteria, can become the dominant organism and start fermentation. This method differs from the sokujo-moto, the most widespread today The use of this traditional method results in sakes with higher acidity and more depth and complexity.:
Yamahai
This method also relies on lactic acid bacteria to raise acidity but allows for the mechanisation of part of the process, being less costly and labour intensive than kimoto. Its influence on the sake is very similar and sakes made following the yamahai method tend to display higher levels of acidity and more depth and complexity.
Nama-zake:
This method also relies on lactic acid bacteria to raise acidity but allows for the mechanisation of part of the process, being less costly and labour intensive than kimoto. Its influence on the sake is very similar and sakes made following the yamahai method tend to display higher levels of acidity and more depth and complexity.
Genshu:
Genshu sake has no water added before bottling. For this reason, they tend to display higher alcohol levels as well as more concentrated and rich flavours.
Nigori:
Nigori-zake is either roughly filtered or a blend of clear and roughly filtered sake. Due to the presence of sake lees, it has a cloudy appearance. If made into a style with thick lees, the sake will display a richer texture, higher acidity and a fuller body. If a more restrained style is used, like usu-nigori or sasa-nigori, the amount of remaining lees will be lower, just adding more texture to the sake. Nigori-zake has a shorter shelf live than clear sake and the bottle needs to be tilted gently before serving to mix the lees with the liquid.
Sparkling:
This style of sake is relatively new and the first examples were released to the market in the 90’s as an attempt to attract younger consumers. It can be either carbonated (injecting carbon dioxide under pressure) or bottle-fermented. This last method is very uncommon, as sake yeasts do not flocculate and cannot be removed the same way it’s done for sparkling wine. This means that bottle-fermented sakes tend to be cloudy and are sold as nama (unpasteurised).
Koshu:
While sake is usually produced for its consumption when young, koshu sakes have been aged for an extend period and often displays a gold or amber colour as well as complex aromas of toast, honey and nuts.
Kijoshu:
Kijoshu: This luscious style of sake was created to compete with premium noble-rot wines like Sauternes and Tokaji, displaying higher complexity and a fuller body.
Taru-zake:
This sake has been matured in Japanese cedar barrels, resulting in a style with more intense aromas and with hints of spice. It’s more commonly found at events like weddings, festivities or New Year, when a big decorated sake barrel is opened.
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